Venice in the Modern World

Venice should be a must for everyone because of its preservation of history. Although today palazzos from the 1500s and 1600s line the canals, you can go back even further to understand that early medieval folks literally built the islands from nothing. At first a route of escape from invaders, later a major economic and commercial empire. Venice's history takes us further eastward so you can see traces of influence from Constantinople and the Turks. If you can't feel the history while visiting Venice, it is because a wild horde of tourists are feeding pigeons during a 4 hour visit to the piazza San Marco. Get off the beaten path and walk everywhere, and walk at night too. You can take ferries to various islands, explore the first Jewish "ghetto", and enjoy the glimmer of water just about everywhere. Visit the market. Eating well is more difficult, so be willing to do picnics or do some research. Food will be a bit pricier, but see how it is brought in by watching the produce come in on boats in the morning. Then it makes sense.

Here's an article about the growing need to boost the economy while retaining its historical relevance.

http://www.npr.org/2012/06/18/155131818/locals-fear-venice-becoming-a-big-shopping-center?ft=3&f=1001&sc=nl&cc=nh-20120618

Lady Gaga at the Circus Maximus

Click here to see Rome's iconic chariot-racing stadium used for Lady Gaga's free performance, June 12 2011. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OVwvb_MQVMc

Restaurants-Student Recommendations

Post here on your fav restaurants so that future students have a chance to have your amazing meals and opportunties. A meal for 20 E, a "best" pasta, a great dessert--post those recs here. It's helpful if you give the name of the restaurant or bar, and also helpful to list what you ate and the street or what it's near.

Pantheon with Bell Towers

Few cities in Europe offer the scope of the various layers of history--from Ancient Rome to the present. Here is a great image of the Pantheon from 1835; notice the bell towers added by Bernini and removed in 1883.  You'll come to admire this magisterial artist at the Galleria Borghese, especially his sculpture. But these bell towers were perhaps a bit of a disaster!

Note: the shape of the buildings are still similar; we'll get gelato just to the right of the Pantheon.

Note: the height of the fountain; in the Roman period, there was a staircase to reach the portico of the Pantheon. Ancient Rome was far lower than today's Rome.

Fun Fact: Each massive column is about 40 feet high. Architectural specialists suggest that in actuality they should have been 50 feet to balance out the proportions. Is that why Bernini added the bell towers?

Climbing the Leaning Tower of Pisa

I find that students typically either really like the Leaning Tower of Pisa, or don't. I visited it when I was in college too, but came back as a medievalist and with children. It was one of life's great adventures getting to the top. We brought the flip-video and recorded our kids comments afterwards.

"What was your favorite thing about the Tower, we asked? Coming down!"

If you go to the leaning tower of Pisa, reserve tickets to climb the tower, and spend the money to go in the church. Yes, don't forget to take funny photos pinching the tower with your fingers, but you may appreciate it more if you climb the tower, for which reservations are necessary.

Here's what we did: while on a weekend to Florence, we took the train to Pisa (about 40 minutes), having made reservations in advance to climb the tower. (One could conceivably do a long day trip from Rome, if you started early and you didn't find about 3 hours on the train; it goes either straight through along the coast or with a change in Florence).

When we arrived at the Pisa train station, we taxied to the site (you can walk or take a bus alternatively, but we had kids and were on a time schedule). We visited the outside site, ate a nice lunch with a view of the tower, and then climbed it. Only about 20 are allowed at a time, with the guide.

What did it feel like to climb the tower? A bit scary and exhilerating. The views were great, and yes, you feel the 3.97% lean!

Tips: I had the kids in flip-flops; bad idea.

Historical relevance: The site is a testament to the growing economic power and competition of  medieval cities. Begun in 1173 (and with the funds from a widow, Berta di Bernando who donated 60 gold coins for the purchase of the first construction materials).

Fun fact: Pisa, the town, sells mucho souveniers. In 2011  it banned the image of the tower on men's underwear! Having visited the Croatian town of Porec in 2012, where such images of body parts and even more extreme activities appear on just about everything and make walking with children on beautiful medieval streets a treacherous activity--I support this. But watch out for Michelangelo's David's parts appearing on the next apron that you see!

The Lean: In 2001 it was reopened after extensive underground stabilization which moved the tower 18 inches inwards, and is supposed to stabilize it for 300 years. (I hope).

You can show up early, and the request afternoon tickets at the ticket office. However to ensure reservations (must be scheduled at least 15 days in advance), click here:  http://www.opapisa.it/en/plan-your-visit/ticket-office.html

Pick-pocketing and "Accounting"

We just heard that one of our Drury colleagues was pickpocketed and had his backpack, including ipad, stolen on the train from FCO to Termini. 

While that has  not been a common experience in the last 5 years of travel to Rome (only my mother had someone extract her passport from her ZIPPED purse in 2008 on a subway), it is important to be aware that this is much more of a common pursuit than in the United States.  

I once had the contents of my purse extracted at a concert (where bodies were quite close) at a concert in Germany back in the day, so it happens! 

These sorts of things are much more likely to occur on tourist routes like Bus 64 from Termini to St. Peters, and so staying off the tourist tracks by simply walking can be useful. 

But no real worries, if you protect yourself well, like keeping your purse around you and on your lap when sitting; and your money tucked away. I have really not had any issues in past trips—but it is true that there are more economic trevails in Europe right now and so that might influence more activity.

Guys, do not keep your wallets in your back pockets. We do recommend a money belt: the kind that attaches to a belt. 

We were just in Paris where scams were much more prevalent than in Rome—but it's always good to be aware of scams, those asking for money (which means you get out your purse), making sure that you receive EU money back (rather than British or Croatian), counting your change you receive, and counting out your bills separately for the cashier or taxi driver (rather than turning over a wad of money which can be disputed). 

Finally, everyone will probably be scammed once—even someone who has travelled a lot. So don't take it personally. It's hopefully a minor inconvenience and not a big part of your European adventure. 

We hope this helps! 

An Italian Weekend: Where to go?

Traveling in Italy is relaxing and a way to keep building on Italian culture. You might want to combine some city travels with some smaller cities as well.

Florence-a great Renaissance city two hours by train; you can climb the Duomo. Reserve museums ahead (Accademia, Uffizi gallery). Make sure to climb to the hill that overlooks the cathedral to appreciate the size of the dome. Good leather shopping; lots of American tourists. You can take the fast train in 1 hour 45 minutes, or the slow train too. Can be combined with a visit to the Leaning Tower of Pisa, but climbing the tour (which is worth it) needs to be pre-booked online. 

Siena—Bus from Rome leaves from Tiburtina station; a classic medieval hill town with great food and the beauty of the countryside is overwhelming. The Palio horse race is held in July here. As Rick Steves says in his guidebook, "Everyone loves Siena." 

Venice—a living city from the past, see it before it sinks. No cars, making walks very peaceful when off the tourist spots. For me, an all-time favorite. Make sure to wander the entire island, or you will see too many tourists. Jewish ghetto is interesting. You can ferry to the beach too, or the off shore islands, like the glass-blowing island, Murano. Ride the trapettos across canals for a far cheaper gondola ride (a euro vs. 100 Euros). Food can be hit or miss, so wander off the path. Great tourist shopping for gifts!  Walks at night over bridges and around corners can be exhilarating.  You could stop in Verona on the way to Venice, if traveling by train. There are flights from Rome to Venice as well. 

Orvieto—an easy day trip form Rome, or overnight, if you'd like to see an Italian hill town. Funicular takes you from the station to the hill. One of Italy’s prettiest medieval cathedrals. 

Naples--As a medievalists and traveller to the Middle East, I find Naples enjoyable. But it is an acquired taste: chaotic, frenzied, frequent garbage issues. 

Amalfi Coast—one of the prettiest places in the world. You can train to Naples and then  Sorrento-- and bus to locations, ferry to Capri. Take the train to Naples, then the circumsuviana train to Sorrento. This same train goes to Pompeii (students tell me there is a luggage hold at this site) and Herculaneum. From Sorrento you can ferry to the beautiful island of Capri. You can also take a bus directly from Rome from Rome’s Tiburtina station (take metro there) to Sorrento; leaves around 2 p.m.; three hours; 16 E. Busses in Europe are very nice, with bathrooms; air-conditioned.