Climbing the Leaning Tower of Pisa

I find that students typically either really like the Leaning Tower of Pisa, or don't. I visited it when I was in college too, but came back as a medievalist and with children. It was one of life's great adventures getting to the top. We brought the flip-video and recorded our kids comments afterwards.

"What was your favorite thing about the Tower, we asked? Coming down!"

If you go to the leaning tower of Pisa, reserve tickets to climb the tower, and spend the money to go in the church. Yes, don't forget to take funny photos pinching the tower with your fingers, but you may appreciate it more if you climb the tower, for which reservations are necessary.

Here's what we did: while on a weekend to Florence, we took the train to Pisa (about 40 minutes), having made reservations in advance to climb the tower. (One could conceivably do a long day trip from Rome, if you started early and you didn't find about 3 hours on the train; it goes either straight through along the coast or with a change in Florence).

When we arrived at the Pisa train station, we taxied to the site (you can walk or take a bus alternatively, but we had kids and were on a time schedule). We visited the outside site, ate a nice lunch with a view of the tower, and then climbed it. Only about 20 are allowed at a time, with the guide.

What did it feel like to climb the tower? A bit scary and exhilerating. The views were great, and yes, you feel the 3.97% lean!

Tips: I had the kids in flip-flops; bad idea.

Historical relevance: The site is a testament to the growing economic power and competition of  medieval cities. Begun in 1173 (and with the funds from a widow, Berta di Bernando who donated 60 gold coins for the purchase of the first construction materials).

Fun fact: Pisa, the town, sells mucho souveniers. In 2011  it banned the image of the tower on men's underwear! Having visited the Croatian town of Porec in 2012, where such images of body parts and even more extreme activities appear on just about everything and make walking with children on beautiful medieval streets a treacherous activity--I support this. But watch out for Michelangelo's David's parts appearing on the next apron that you see!

The Lean: In 2001 it was reopened after extensive underground stabilization which moved the tower 18 inches inwards, and is supposed to stabilize it for 300 years. (I hope).

You can show up early, and the request afternoon tickets at the ticket office. However to ensure reservations (must be scheduled at least 15 days in advance), click here:  http://www.opapisa.it/en/plan-your-visit/ticket-office.html

Pick-pocketing and "Accounting"

We just heard that one of our Drury colleagues was pickpocketed and had his backpack, including ipad, stolen on the train from FCO to Termini. 

While that has  not been a common experience in the last 5 years of travel to Rome (only my mother had someone extract her passport from her ZIPPED purse in 2008 on a subway), it is important to be aware that this is much more of a common pursuit than in the United States.  

I once had the contents of my purse extracted at a concert (where bodies were quite close) at a concert in Germany back in the day, so it happens! 

These sorts of things are much more likely to occur on tourist routes like Bus 64 from Termini to St. Peters, and so staying off the tourist tracks by simply walking can be useful. 

But no real worries, if you protect yourself well, like keeping your purse around you and on your lap when sitting; and your money tucked away. I have really not had any issues in past trips—but it is true that there are more economic trevails in Europe right now and so that might influence more activity.

Guys, do not keep your wallets in your back pockets. We do recommend a money belt: the kind that attaches to a belt. 

We were just in Paris where scams were much more prevalent than in Rome—but it's always good to be aware of scams, those asking for money (which means you get out your purse), making sure that you receive EU money back (rather than British or Croatian), counting your change you receive, and counting out your bills separately for the cashier or taxi driver (rather than turning over a wad of money which can be disputed). 

Finally, everyone will probably be scammed once—even someone who has travelled a lot. So don't take it personally. It's hopefully a minor inconvenience and not a big part of your European adventure. 

We hope this helps! 

An Italian Weekend: Where to go?

Traveling in Italy is relaxing and a way to keep building on Italian culture. You might want to combine some city travels with some smaller cities as well.

Florence-a great Renaissance city two hours by train; you can climb the Duomo. Reserve museums ahead (Accademia, Uffizi gallery). Make sure to climb to the hill that overlooks the cathedral to appreciate the size of the dome. Good leather shopping; lots of American tourists. You can take the fast train in 1 hour 45 minutes, or the slow train too. Can be combined with a visit to the Leaning Tower of Pisa, but climbing the tour (which is worth it) needs to be pre-booked online. 

Siena—Bus from Rome leaves from Tiburtina station; a classic medieval hill town with great food and the beauty of the countryside is overwhelming. The Palio horse race is held in July here. As Rick Steves says in his guidebook, "Everyone loves Siena." 

Venice—a living city from the past, see it before it sinks. No cars, making walks very peaceful when off the tourist spots. For me, an all-time favorite. Make sure to wander the entire island, or you will see too many tourists. Jewish ghetto is interesting. You can ferry to the beach too, or the off shore islands, like the glass-blowing island, Murano. Ride the trapettos across canals for a far cheaper gondola ride (a euro vs. 100 Euros). Food can be hit or miss, so wander off the path. Great tourist shopping for gifts!  Walks at night over bridges and around corners can be exhilarating.  You could stop in Verona on the way to Venice, if traveling by train. There are flights from Rome to Venice as well. 

Orvieto—an easy day trip form Rome, or overnight, if you'd like to see an Italian hill town. Funicular takes you from the station to the hill. One of Italy’s prettiest medieval cathedrals. 

Naples--As a medievalists and traveller to the Middle East, I find Naples enjoyable. But it is an acquired taste: chaotic, frenzied, frequent garbage issues. 

Amalfi Coast—one of the prettiest places in the world. You can train to Naples and then  Sorrento-- and bus to locations, ferry to Capri. Take the train to Naples, then the circumsuviana train to Sorrento. This same train goes to Pompeii (students tell me there is a luggage hold at this site) and Herculaneum. From Sorrento you can ferry to the beautiful island of Capri. You can also take a bus directly from Rome from Rome’s Tiburtina station (take metro there) to Sorrento; leaves around 2 p.m.; three hours; 16 E. Busses in Europe are very nice, with bathrooms; air-conditioned.

Finding a Hotel

Try to book hotels in central locations that are safe, historic, and easy to walk around. Location and safety should be your most important consideration, rather than price. With a little research, you can usually find budget accommodations even in the most central location.  You can get a sense of reviews by looking at:

www.booking.com good reviews and sometimes good discounts. Becoming more and more popular. You can order your search by price to eliminate the more expensive hotels. Also note that it has group rates for some hotels. You book on site, pay the hotel or owner.

www.venere.com (a booking agency that makes reservations; make sure to pick somewhere that has good reviews, and click on the map to check the location. Note that you can also click on bed and breakfast and apartments, in addition to hotels, and these are frequently great deals—you can search for up to 4 -6 in a room which is handy and can cut costs).  

www.hostels.net Look at reviews, note that these are students.Some are in poor areas, but some are hotels listing on this site.

www.tripadvisor.com (not a booking service, but you can search by price—like under E100 night, and then read reviews)

Bed and breakfasts or apartments are good budget options too. (Search under town name and appartmento). 

We frequently use these sites for research and then email hotel directly.

Remember that you pay per person for each hotel room (no stacking) and some hotels will be cheaper if bathrooms are down the hall. 

A tip: the hotel will ask for your passports upon arrival, and may keep them in a safe. This is typical, so don't be alarmed. Just remember to retrieve them!